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Inconsistent Remote Codes
#1
Hi

I have now set up my GC-100-6 unit, with the GC-IRE and the GC_RG1 receiver attached to the serial port.

After much hair-tearing and 3 dud versions of port forwarding software, I managed to open COM1 after installing the 4th PF software downloaded.

Man, that was soul-destroying trying to get that bit to work but finally, after two full evenings up till midnight, I got the CQC GC-IRE driver to connect.

If I thought it was hunky-dory after that, I was in for a big fall. Because no matter how many times I pressed the button on the dammned remote, nothing happened in terms of CQC learning the code.

So I fired up the GC iTest program, and pressed the remote button I wanted to capture.

Well, every single time I pressed that button, the iTest program captured a different code! No wonder the CQC driver wasn't interested.

I tried with 3 different remotes, and it was the same with each. I stood closer, farther away, no difference. I turned off all other equipment/interference, no difference.
(My equipment is all quite new, TV and Tivo only 4 months old).

So has anyone figured out a way to actually use the GC-IRE or has this been an expensive waste of time for me? Because without a stable signal from my remote, the device is obviously useless.

(I'm using the remotes that came with the equipment, eg I tried with the TV remote, the Tivo remote and the DVD remote. Do I really need to go and buy a universal remote? Would it do the job? I don't really want to keep throwing money into this pit on the off-chance that it *might* work.)

If anyone has been down this path and found a solution, I'd love to hear.

TIA
Karen
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#2
Karen,

Unfortunately my experience with the GC-IRE about a bit more than a year ago was the same as yours. I reported it to Dean and his suggestion was to use the USB-UIRT for IR training as there was no documentation from GC on how to implement a "strip repeats" algorithm.
Mark Stega
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#3
Hi Mark

Did you try out Dean's suggestion? I already have a bunch of codes from Remote Central which are tied into buttons on the Viewer and which I use to control my TV. That works great. What I had hoped for with the GC-IRE was that the remote control itself would trigger the bunch of actions that I am currently triggering with the buttons. So I really need the CQC driver to link to the remote.

You would think it would be made known that the IRE is far from fool-proof so people could think twice about purchasing it... I'm going to find out what their return policy is, I think.
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#4
Karen,

I got sidetracked (for a whole year apparently) and haven't returned to the issue. Currently I am using a Kindle with the Android RIVA client but I really prefer the form factor and hard buttons of a remote (and no bright backlit screen) so I will return to the project at some point.
Mark Stega
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#5
Some remote controls are very much designed for control of their particular type of device. They will often send out rotating sets of codes, not a single one, for each press of the same button. I guess it helps them in some way to be more reliable. But it makes them kind of useless for IR triggering. It may be that the remote you are using is of that sort.

Try another one and see how it does, just as a test. You do want to train IR stuff in in a similar position from where you'd use it, since the signal can look fairly different if stuck right up against the receiver vs. back in the room where you'd actually send it. For learning codes to blast, you want to use them very close to each other, since you want to get as accurate a copy of the original as possible. For learning codes for IR receiving, do it from a distance that you'd normally use it, since then you are more likely to get a consistent result.

The numbers don't need to be exactly the same for IR receiving, so a little variation is expected. The most common is that it sees a slightly different frequency each time, so all the numbers are expressed in terms of that frequency it thinks it saw. If you adjust the numbers to a common frequency, they will often be just about the same, or the same. The driver does that, then some data reduction to try to match up slight remaining differences. But the GC folks only provide the low level IR capture and very minimal instruction on how to implement data reduction algorithms, which are kind of a science unto themselves. It does work, but some remotes will just trip it up.

The advantage of something like a UIRT for receiving is that it has that data reduction built in, and only returns to CQC the final reduced codes. And, being an IR guy, his reduction is probably better than than mine.
Dean Roddey
Explorans limites defectum
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#6
karenlee Wrote:After much hair-tearing and 3 dud versions of port forwarding software, I managed to open COM1 after installing the 4th PF software downloaded.
Karen

Out of curosity, what software did you end up with?

GC have dropped the ball with this one and should supply their own software.

If you can find the old lantronix program it should work, but the newer version does not support raw which is needed.

Mick
Mykel Koblenz
Illawarra Smart Home
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#7
Dean Roddey Wrote:Try another one and see how it does, just as a test. You do want to train IR stuff in in a similar position from where you'd use it, since the signal can look fairly different if stuck right up against the receiver vs. back in the room where you'd actually send it. For learning codes to blast, you want to use them very close to each other, since you want to get as accurate a copy of the original as possible. For learning codes for IR receiving, do it from a distance that you'd normally use it, since then you are more likely to get a consistent result.

When I was struggling with the GC-IRE I had tried about 4 different remotes. I think it would be best to deprecate support of the GC-IRE since it is so problematic (or at least give a big caveat emptor in the documentation).
Mark Stega
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#8
znelbok Wrote:Out of curosity, what software did you end up with?

GC have dropped the ball with this one and should supply their own software.

If you can find the old lantronix program it should work, but the newer version does not support raw which is needed.

Mick


I tried Lantrox (new) but after much grief found a comment which stated it should be set to 'raw' and lo and behold, there was no raw setting. So I found the old version, but it wasn't entirely happy with being installed to 64 Win 7. I ran it, did all the setup, and it *seemed* ok but CQC couldn't communicate with the port. I tried another 2, which were also duds, then, just as I was about to slit my wrists, I decided to download and try just one more - which finally worked. It was the trial version of Serial Port Redirector from FabulaTech.

Once I had installed this, the rest was really simple and done and dusted in a matter of minutes. It took me 2 full evening to get through the chaff to this point though - I think there is so much old/incorrect/outdated info on the web these days, it makes it really hard. It's so difficult when you see people saying 'oh this works really well, and easy to set up', but you can't get it to work - *is it me?* *is it the software?* *is it the hardware?* can drive you insane.
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#9
Mark Stega Wrote:When I was struggling with the GC-IRE I had tried about 4 different remotes. I think it would be best to deprecate support of the GC-IRE since it is so problematic (or at least give a big caveat emptor in the documentation).


Yes, I wish I had been warned off it, what a waste of money and time.

I also tried 3 different remotes, and it was the same issue with all of them.

I am going to give it a final try this weekend (there are some settings I may be able to play with, I think) and if I still have no joy I will try and return it on Monday and try UIRT.

I had some ideas I wanted to try out last night, but oh, horror, I left my laptop at work! I felt like I was missing a limb all night, and worse - we had to actually MANUALLY turn off the Sonos and turn on the lights and TV!! Confusedhock: It was like stepping back into the dark ages!
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#10
Tried a few things, but nada. Here are the results as displayed in the GC iTest application:

Code:
GC-IRE,40000,229,17,103,17,Z.
GC-IRE,40000,196,14,200,18,Z.
GC-IRE,36000,128,63,16,15,16,47BBBBBBBBBBBCBBBBBBC,16,43BCBBBBBBBBBBBBCBBBBBBBBCBC,16,62,10,12,12,175,10,95,10,133,Z.
GC-IRE,37000,128,64,22,11,Z.
GC-IRE,37000,128,64,16,16,16,48,16,12,20,16BB,22,9BD,22,16B,20,10,Z.
GC-IRE,39000,182,23,22,10,110,8,16,16,Z.


47 43 2D 49 52 45 2C 34 30 30 30 30 2C 32 32 39 2C 31 37 2C 31 30 33 2C 31 37 2C 5A 0D
47 43 2D 49 52 45 2C 34 30 30 30 30 2C 31 39 36 2C 31 34 2C 32 30 30 2C 31 38 2C 5A 0D
47 43 2D 49 52 45 2C 33 36 30 30 30 2C 31 32 38 2C 36 33 2C 31 36 2C 31 35 2C 31 36 2C 34 37 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 43 42 42 42 42 42 42 43 2C 31 36 2C 34 33 42 43 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 43 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 43 42 43 2C 31 36 2C 36 32 2C 31 30 2C 31 32 2C 31 32 2C 31 37 35 2C 31 30 2C 39 35 2C 31 30 2C 31 33 33 2C 5A 0D
47 43 2D 49 52 45 2C 33 37 30 30 30 2C 31 32 38 2C 36 34 2C 32 32 2C 31 31 2C 5A 0D
47 43 2D 49 52 45 2C 33 37 30 30 30 2C 31 32 38 2C 36 34 2C 31 36 2C 31 36 2C 31 36 2C 34 38 2C 31 36 2C 31 32 2C 32 30 2C 31 36 42 42 2C 32 32 2C 39 42 44 2C 32 32 2C 31 36 42 2C 32 30 2C 31 30 2C 5A 0D
47 43 2D 49 52 45 2C 33 39 30 30 30 2C 31 38 32 2C 32 33 2C 32 32 2C 31 30 2C 31 31 30 2C 38 2C 31 36 2C 31 36 2C 5A 0D

No matter how many times I try, the codes come up different. I even covered up the TV in case stray light was affecting it.
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