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CQC HA Build - MikeG
(03-29-2018, 10:22 AM)RichardU Wrote: Thanks so much for posting this. I got into CQC about the same time and have some of the same equipment, e.g. M1G. I haven't implemented the CQC web server yet. Last time I seriously considered it was several years ago. Someone said they would share their config files, but that never happened. Are yours available?

These are the plugins / dockers I'm running on unRAID. I'll be happy to answer anyone's questions about any of them. Also, I find this guy's advice invaluable:

Hi Richard,

Thanks for your comments. I'd be happy to share any config files that would help you out.  To be honest I don't recall doing much to get the CQC web server up and running other than installing it and placing some web documents in the correct folder. I should mention that I'm not opened up outside my LAN as I'm uncertain on just how secure that would be.  Let me know more on what you're looking for and I'll help you out where I can.
  • It does sound like we have very similar setups even down to unRAID.┬á I have at least 3/4's of those dockers running too!┬á When i get a chance I am going to look up some of the ones that aren't a match and may bug you about them.┬á I also found that spaceinvader guys tutorials great!
  • I'd very interested in hearing about how your Serial to Ethernet device works out. I am using a Digi 8 port card with CQC via KVM passthrough to the VM.┬á Wouldn't mind replacing that and freeing up a USB port.
  • I have 3 video cards passed through right now from unRAID, I think using it as a full desktop replacement would┬áwork well. As mentioned I'm loving this VM thing for how easy it is to just make backups of vdisks and switch them in and out when a MS update goes sideways or whatever...┬áMy struggle is USB ports and having enough of them to also pass through to VM's.┬á I've had some luck with┬áa multi-controller USB card, but not perfect.
(03-30-2018, 09:30 PM)kblagron Wrote: I went ahead and decided to stick with the Rain8 .vs. the Elk, as the last thing I want is to fry the Elk with a lightning strike.  

I think that's a wise move for now.  I think there's a company or two that makes a wifi connected set of relays.  Something like that might work in order to give you an air gap and break that lightning path.  I think it was global cache that had one but a small number of relays so may get ridiculous in the cost department if more than 3 zones needed...  That would likely work with JKisk's driver and I think has CQC support.  Of course then you might be just blowing up Global Cache's instead, but at least it's isolated from the rest of the network of things.

I've been a bit concerned about this too, some day I want to look into a cheaper way to optically isolate my elk from the orbit valves.  Maybe a relay turns on an LED which triggers an opto-coupler and turns on a 2nd relay.  That should work...  A quick google search didn't yield anything obvious as a kit although did find a hit on opto isolator relay, but not sure that's what we want.

I'm reporting back that this item is working well as a serial port replacement. Although I got it for $34 and now it's $43. Maybe it will go back down.

Cheers, Richard
My Other web server is Dropbox.
I will get back to you on the docker in UnRaid when I install them again.
tia, Ron

My HT equipment I want to control by CQC (some day hopefully)
Yamaha CX-A5100, Dune HD pro 4k, Dune HD Pro 4k plus, ISY 994i, LG 86" 4k FP, and a projector in the future
This is amazing! Very informative and inspiring, especially for a new user. Thanks so much for taking the time to post this...
I have made some updates to my system since my first post.  Nothing really graphically, but have added some features and control of other equipment.

Tankless Water Heater Recirc pump control

Added a Rheem CRTGH-95DVLN2 tankless water heater system a couple years ago.  We've been extremely happy with a tankless system, but did notice one drawback vs the old tank system.  It takes a little longer (1-2 mins) to get hot water.  Of course this varies depending on how far your particular water fixture is away from the hot water source. Just like a tank based system the hot water has to flow from the tank to the water fixture first, but… There's also a time period where the tankless system itself fires up and you have to wait for it to get hot enough to actually produce hot water vs a tank where it keeps water always hot.  This added lag is quite noticeable if you are a bit impatient like I am and was not very well advertised at the time when reading up on these systems…  Knowing this now though I would still go tankless even without the below tricks to remove this issue.  At least so far… hoping it lasts a good long while as we went through tanks about every 7-8 years.

To solve this newly added lag, a  re-circulation pump and loop of plumbing can be added to give nearly instant hot water.  Ideally this new line goes to the fixture at the farthest spot from the water heater.  I was able to run a new PEX line through a cold air return and access the hot water line already going to the farthest away shower and simply make a splice/loop. I then added a pump beside the Tankless unit to drive water through that loop.  The idea is to feed water to the farthest fixture and then send that water back to be heated in a loop until the water temp is hot.  Then when you turn on a hot water tap the plumbing is primed with heated water already and should get to just about everywhere in the house quicker.  This is a bit dependent on how your hot water lines branch out though.  

So far this really doesn't have much to do with CQC I guess…  Where that comes in is the control of that pump and monitoring of water temperature.  The recirc. pump is simply controlled via AC power on/off. Against my better judgement the pump is currently controlled via an Insteon Outlet on/off device.  In addition I have a temp probe on the recirc loop connected to CQC.  CQC watches this and has been programmed to turn off the pump when the temp rises in that line over a determined threshold.  Took a little trial and error to pick the right temp to shut off to guarantee hot water in the shower upstairs without getting the recirc. line too hot and back feeding already very hot water into the tankless unit.  The tankless system I have does turn itself off if this gets too hot so is safe in case of a failure of CQC here too.  Also have programmed my ISY device to shut off the relay if it runs for more than 2 minutes as an added measure of safety.  The pump AC power control is going to migrate to an Elk relay one of these days though… Insteon has worked mostly well for me, but is not bullet proof enough for this.

To signal need for hot water I have a few  mechanisms to use: 
1. A button on the in wall touchscreens will start the recirc loop
2. When we're cooking, I have another button to select keep warm for 60 minutes.  It'll cycle the recirc. loop as needed to ensure water is always hot.
3. Google Home via IFTTT can start the recirc loop
4. Double taps of certain Insteon switches (Kitchen/Bathrooms) will start the recirc. loop.
5. At set times of the day (morning/bedtime) the recirc will run when certain lights in the bathroom are turned on.

With the new Tankless.recirc option CQC is now  ensuring we have almost instantaneous hot water on demand. By far, this is one of the more popular CQC uses in the household right now.  It also saves water which is a bonus.

Doorbell through Elk Zone:
I have recently wired my doorbell (no power/lighting connected) straight to an elk zone with its' polling cycle on the faster setting.  
  • CQC now monitors for an event (button push) and fires up my B&K amp in certain zones and plays a chime/song or whatever the kids pick for any special occasions.  
  • The triggered event also emails us the date and time when the doorbell was rung.
  •  The Doorbell can be truned off or goes to a quiet or silent mode based on time of day… no more ring and run in the middle of the night for us.
I also want to add a couple JPEG's of CCTV camera snapshots when the bell is pushed in future but have not figured out how to do that yet.  A future project. 

Under cabinet lighting control via  MQTT / Shelly RGBW2
A couple recent posts by Kfly showing some LED lighting and Sic 0048 discussing Tasmota have set me down a path to get some RGBW LED strips into my system.  Last weekend I got around to replacing the old/burnt out under cabinet lights in our kitchen with LED strips that are controlled by a Shelly device.  We have 3 separate cabinet areas to illuminate so I wound up just cutting the strips into 3 sections and running cat 6 cable between the strips / soldered together to make one controllable loop.

Lights are turned on via an Insteon On/Off switch that simply cuts or adds AC power to the Power supply for now.  The Shelly should ideally be left on constantly and a switch input connected to the controller directly.  I am not able to do that wiring due to drywall/studs in the way so am living with it like this.  The Shelly powers back up in the same state it was in when power was killed so works well enough.  There is a second or two lag from light switch on to actual lights on as a downside.  I'll fix that when we renovate the kitchen and run some new wires properly.

So far just controlling by the Shelly Android app.  I'm really liking LED strips!  I will be adding more in future. Apparently the Shelly can do MQTT which I will tackle next to connect in CQC.  I see some write-ups in the forum that I hope to utilize to get this to go… looks kind of complex though.  Will update upon success or failure.

Items used:
1x BTF-LIGHTING 5050 RGBW RGB+Warm White(2700K-3000K) 4 Colors in 1 LED 16.4ft 60LEDs/m Multi-Colored LED Tape Lights IP30 Non-Waterproof White FPCB LED DC24V

1x LightingWill Waterproof IP67 LED Power Supply Driver Transformer 40W 110V AC to 24V DC Low Voltage Output with 3-Prong Plug 3.3 Feet Cable for Outdoor Use  (A bit overkill for this now as I only needed about 11 feet of the above LED's)

1x Shelly RGBW2 WI-FI LED Controller

HVAC Booster Fan
I made a mistake when I built our house and we only installed one furnace for 3 stories of living space without zoning.  Now our basement is always too cool vs the rest of the house in winter and sometimes too cool in Summer.  I recently bought an AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S6, Quiet 6” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller to help with heating the basement.  Fan will be controlled via power on/off direct to the fan or I may use a relay and wires soldered to the remote button to turn on/off and change speeds. CQC will have to track states without feedback or I'll find a way to monitor the power to the On LED of the controller.  If anyone knows of a way to monitor an LED with an ELK zone or something simple like that I would be grateful for that info. So TBD on control.

I've now tapped into an existing heat/AC register and have this booster fan connected for testing. I think part of the issue is that existing registers are in the ceiling too so aren't as efficient as in floor ones. That and well, heat rises. Moving the registers into the concrete floor or lower in the wall is not something I want to tackle.  The goal here for winter is to heat the basement quicker than the rest of the house (and likely a bit more often).  That should keep the basement more comfortable and the heat will rise to the top floors as well keeping a relatively even feeling throughout (maybe).  I will have to close/open some registers upstairs I imagine to fine tune and play around a bit.  Right now to heat the basement to a comfy temperature, you have to cook the folks upstairs over time. (Run-time is too long).  Testing with the fan so far shows a dramatic improvement in the ability to heat the basement quickly vs the top floor.  I'm talking like 5-10 times faster.

I run my furnace via CQC / ELK relays already so will simply turn this booster fan on when the heat turns on and monitor the temperature in various zones.  Some playing around will be needed to determine optimal basement temp to turn on/off the fan and also keep the other areas comfortable too.  I plan to make various settings for time of day and year etc.  Like Sleeping Winter, Sleeping Summer, Basement comfort etc.  Those settings will drive parameters to keep various house zones at certain temps…  I have plenty of temp probes already which should allow this fine tuning.
-Mike G

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