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Controlling LED light with 12v battery
#31
SomeWhatLost Wrote:oh and no matter what, if you go with the using the hinges for power transfer, put a fuse inline with the 12V before the hinge... just in case some kind soul decided to lay a piece of conduit or some other conductive thing up against them...

actually, a fuse is a generally good idea no mater what you do... 12V is a nice safe low voltage, but especially with a high current source like a battery, if it shorts out it can cause fire type problems... fire type problems + wood doors may not be the best combo?

a nice little 1 ~ 5 amp quick blow fuse (depending on your actual load) would do wonders from a safety (ie lack of fire) point of view...
If I use a wall wart should I still fuse it...or would it be internally fused already?
tia, Ron

My Go Big or Go Home Retirement HT...
Yamaha CX-A5100, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, (2) MiniDSP DDRC-88M, (4) JBL 8340As, (4) JBL 8320s), PS3, (2) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere HDMI cables, Monster HTPS7000, )2) Furman rack conditioners, (2) Danley DTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, Panamorph UH-480 anamorphic lens, SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), 2 Crest Audio CM2008 8 channel amps, and (3) Parasound Zamps.
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#32
ellisr63 Wrote:If I use a wall wart should I still fuse it...or would it be internally fused already?
I would, if the wall wart is even fused, it would probably be at some point over its max current out...
besides, if your door were to burst into flames, I doubt the Chinese factory that made the wall wart would jump on a plane to help put out the flames...

I guess I just find it easier to trust myself then someone else... trust issues I guess?

besides, fuses are cheap... like this fuse holder and these fuses together are only like $9
of course, that gets you 25 fuses, that is a lot of spares... and amazon seems expensive on this, I would probably try autozone or ace or someplace local, or radio shack if they still exist?... maybe get a couple fuses (nice to have a spare on hand, just in case... not necessarily 24 spares... but one or two would be nice.) plus holder for less than $5

note, the 1amp fuse is just a guess on my part, based on how it looks from your pictures that there are only two brightish blue LED's in the door handle (one top, one bottom), so I would guess 20-30mA each, if hooked up in parallel that would be 60mA so a 1AMP fuse would give plenty of headroom to not falsely blow, but is low enough that any 'bad' condition should cause it to blow quickly. and in a less then 5 second search, I could not find anything smaller in the atc/ato style...
also, nothing special about ATC/ATO fuses other then they are common, and that is what the first fuse holder I found took...
NOTE: As one wise professional something once stated, I am ignorant & childish, with a mindset comparable to 9/11 troofers and wackjob conspiracy theorists. so don't take anything I say as advice...
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#33
oh, and whatever you end up doing, make sure you post pic's & an update....
theory is great and all, but seeing how something is actually completed is so much cooler...
NOTE: As one wise professional something once stated, I am ignorant & childish, with a mindset comparable to 9/11 troofers and wackjob conspiracy theorists. so don't take anything I say as advice...
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