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Trioxide's setup
#1
Figured it was finally time to put my system up here. Have been using CQC for over a year now and slowly getting my house automated. Now I don't have as big as system as I see out there but this is what I have. My home is 2 floors with 1800 sqft. Only have 2 TVs, FR big screen and M Bed TVs, and no audio distrubuting so no need for anything fancy. Using Channel Plus Dual Video Modulator / Broadband Ampliefier / IR Repeating System. Was going to use this to get my video in the MBed and other areas but quality not good enough so it is only doing IR Distribution right now as I already had cable running to the TVs so was able to use that to send the IR signals. AV equipment is: Yamaha RX-V659 Receiver, Motorola DCT 6412III PVR, LG DVD Player, & PS2. Having to use IR to control everything.

Lighting - Insteon and is working fine for me, have a couple of switches that are intermitent that I need to replace though. Couple of X10 devices that I am using to control the christmas lights - guess it is time to take them down now. Have trigger that turns them on and off for me, works most of the time. Not sure why X10 does not work all the time.

Cameras - Geovision card GV-850 & software ver 8.22 on my server and cameras connected around the outside of my house for security. The software allows me to detect motion and then jrlewis wrote a driver, so CQC can detect that motion, via a database, and respond to it. So when motion is triggered on the cameras I have CQC turn on the light if it is night and then run a countdown timer and shut them off after a set time. Also have it display a prompt on the main screen, and pop-up the camera view on my Nokia 770, so I know the motion happened. Got some code from the people at Geovision so that I can see my cameras via a html page. Works great.

Have a 56K V.90 External Dial Up USB PCI Voice Fax Data Modem hooked up so I can see who is calling me.

Security - Elk M1 Gold system but not setup yet. Have it linked to CQC but only thing connected right now is the phone line. Want to get the doorbells connected, some motion sensors for inside and door/window sensors - thinking about wireless here as way easier to install. Any comments?

Nokia 770. Went through the script described at forum and installed the latest - pyrdesktop. Seems to be working fine but I don't use it so can't reply on reliability.

iPhone 3G. Love this device. Running Winadmin to connect to CQC and see my screens. Have to do a little scrolling around but seems to work fine. Have not really used it for this. Would like to setup for connecting from a remote location.

Movies. Using my server with HDMI card and SPDIF output to connect to my AV Receiver and big screen TV. Have the common movies my kid watches ripped to the HD, 160 movies and counting. Using the software program Theatretek, with the CQC IP driver. I have a USB-UIRT connected to the computer and have set it up to receive commands from the remote which then control TT transport commands (play, ff, rew, etc.) These commands can also be sent from CQC from the Nokia & iPhone screens.

Music - using the iTunes repo. Works fine but not see all the images. Have over 8900 mp3 files.

Templates - borrowed from ellisr63 his Modern Series V3 templates. Have displays for Remotes - to control my different devices, Weather, Calendar - Google Calendar, Lighting, Cameras, Security, Movies & Music.

CQC Server - All of the above is running on my Gateway GT-5428 w/ Intel Pentium D 935 dual-core 1.8 GHz, 2 Gb Ram, ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro video card w/ HDMI and SPDIF on Windows XP SP2. Have 80 Gb & 1 Tb HDs.

Main
[Image: Main.jpg]

Remote
[Image: Remote.jpg]

Cameras
[Image: Cameras.jpg]

[Image: Cameras2.jpg]

Calendar
[Image: Calendar.jpg]

Lighting
[Image: Lighting.jpg]

[Image: Lighting2.jpg]

Weather
[Image: Weather.jpg]

Security
[Image: Security.jpg]

[Image: Alarm.jpg]

Movies
[Image: Movies.jpg]

[Image: Movies2.jpg]

Music
[Image: Music.jpg]

[Image: Music2.jpg]

CallerID
[Image: CallerID.jpg]
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#2
Looks great IMHO. You may not feel that you have a "big system" but you have a lot of different things integrated. Well done.

As far as wireless security is concerned - it should work just fine. The only problem I see in it is the cost. A window/door contact that is $2-3 wired is $35-$50 for wireless. A PIR, glass break, or smoke detector that wired is $40-50 is $80-$100 for wireless. Plus you have to have the wireless receiver unit to make it all work (like the ELK-M1XRF2G) which runs about $150 as well.

So the cost can quickly add up. It may actually be less expensive to pay a professional to come and run wires everywhere. It really just depends on the situation and how easy it is to access everything. If you have a crawl space or a basement and good attic access, running wires will be a pain, but not impossible. If there is no good access for the lower level, you could do wireless downstairs and wired upstairs if you have good attic access.
Brian

"Really dear, it was too good of a deal to pass up. Besides, look at what it does now...."
I think my wife is getting a little tired of hearing this :-)
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#3
nice setup...the biggest downside i saw was all the snow in the security camera pictures. what is that, a couple feet of snow?
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#4
sic0048 Wrote:As far as wireless security is concerned - it should work just fine. The only problem I see in it is the cost. A window/door contact that is $2-3 wired is $35-$50 for wireless. A PIR, glass break, or smoke detector that wired is $40-50 is $80-$100 for wireless. Plus you have to have the wireless receiver unit to make it all work (like the ELK-M1XRF2G) which runs about $150 as well.

So the cost can quickly add up. It may actually be less expensive to pay a professional to come and run wires everywhere. It really just depends on the situation and how easy it is to access everything. If you have a crawl space or a basement and good attic access, running wires will be a pain, but not impossible. If there is no good access for the lower level, you could do wireless downstairs and wired upstairs if you have good attic access.

I see your point. I have attic access with a couple of tubes running down to my closet in the basement so that makes it easier pulling wires. But to put door and windows sensors in they need to run the wire on the outside wall and I know that is tough and then the price to wire jumps up very quickly. So I am debating which is easier and cheaper and works well.
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#5
gacevich Wrote:nice setup...the biggest downside i saw was all the snow in the security camera pictures. what is that, a couple feet of snow?

Yes, lots of snow. I have shoveled my driveway more times than I can count. This is unusual for us. But I have a level short driveway so it is not hard.
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#6
So looking at the numbers, it costs about $40-50 more per device for wireless. So a $2-3 wired device become $42-$52 wireless and a $40-50 wired device becomes $80-100 wireless. Odd that I hadn't noticed the consistancy in pricing before. I guess I've thought more along the lines of a wired contact being 10-15 times the cost and the other stuff running about double cost.

So you are right that paying someone to wire the system my not be worth it. Every situation is different, but I bet you would be hard pressed to find someone that would run the wire for $40-50 a run. Of course it all depends on the number of runs you have. If a lot of the windows are tied together in 1 zone for example, that should lower the number of runs that get back to the panel and would probably be cheaper, etc.
Brian

"Really dear, it was too good of a deal to pass up. Besides, look at what it does now...."
I think my wife is getting a little tired of hearing this :-)
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#7
Outside walls (for doors and windows) would be a breeze to wire in a ranch style home with attic access. I can't imagine it would take but a couple, few hours for a good security guy to just come in and run the wires. Plus, security contractors (avoid ADT or Brinks, they blow through people) with experience are as good at retrofit as anyone else. I see your install as easy and it may be cheaper than you think. Get 'em to bid T&M.
Recovering (quasi) ex-professional integrator...wait...scratch that. I'm back in the field and should probably have my head examined...
HAI, UPB, Parasound, Global Cache GC100 and IR learner, DatalogDB, Barix Barionet (I need to buy another one of these!), Weather, RFID, Logic Server
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#8
One thing you need to think about if you have walls 10' or greater, is that they have to put in a firebreak between each stud (at least here in Texas). In my house which has 10' walls for the entire downstairs, the area between each stud has a cross stud for the firebreak about 1/2 way down.
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#9
kblagron Wrote:One thing you need to think about if you have walls 10' or greater, is that they have to put in a firebreak between each stud (at least here in Texas). In my house which has 10' walls for the entire downstairs, the area between each stud has a cross stud for the firebreak about 1/2 way down.

Well I don't have high ceilings like that but looks like I do have the cross stud as when I had wiring run to my M Bed for component video they could only go so far because of that stud, so my outlet is not where I wanted it. So that does make it a problem with wiring for doors and windows, I think, which is another reason why I was considering wireless.
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#10
Looking to view different programs, DVD, CQC server for movies, PVR & Filippino cable box in different locations so just purchased a 6X2 Component Video Audio Matrix Switch, Impact Acoustics 40697. Decided this was a lot cheaper then replacing the AV Receiver, got it for $180 from http://www.hdtvsupply.com. Will let you know how that goes when I get it and all setup.
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