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KBL's CQC Setup
#21
Another thread had interest in the keypads I have installed, so here are some pictures to show the good and bad of the B&K keypads.

Good -

- Provides Full IR control back to the reciever. You can actually use the CT receiver as your IR engine for the entire house.
- Buttons are fully programmable and multiple commands can be programmed into one button and sent back to the receiver.
- I think the keypads are very handy for secondary rooms where you just want to go in, turn on something, and maybe adjust the volume control, etc.

Bad -
- Definitely not as flashy as the Nuvo, Russound, or ZonAudio keypads.
- Limited 2 way RS-232 control. You get feedback on zone, volume level, bass level, and treble.

I have 8 of these installed - 7 of the CK 1.1 model, which is a single gang, and 1 of the CK 1.2 model which is double gang.

Here are some pictures:

CK 1.1 - with Beige Faceplate
[Image: DSC02340.jpg]

CK 1.2 - with White Faceplate
[Image: DSC02344.jpg]

CK 1.1 - Shows the place where RS-232 feedback received on volume settings, etc. Essentially when you hit the backlight button, it will scroll thru those settings in this location.
[Image: DSC02333.jpg]

The next two pictures are what I did in the backyard. I have two linked zones. One zone is the covered patio which has in-ceiling speakers, and the other zone has 6 speakers around the pool / outdoor kitchen area. Those are controlled by the volume control, so essentially the outside area will always be playing one thing, but I can turn down the speakers that are not in the covered area independently of the ones under the patio.

I have run cat5e to the patio area and plan on adding an LCD that will utilize the B&K HD6 video switch. I also plan on enclosing it in a semi-weatherproof box, and it will come out of the enclosure via a TV lift which is IR controlled. I have purchased the TV lift already, and I think it will work great in my initial evaluation of it, but until I get the box built, the TV installed, and the connections in it, I guess I won't be positive.

Patio Keypad with Cover Closed -
[Image: DSC02342.jpg]

Patio Keypad / Volume Control with Cover Open -
[Image: DSC02343.jpg]
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#22
Well its been awhile since I have posted anything here, but thought I would give an update on what I have been doing, to make it short, mostly terminating wires!

I ended up ditching the Sonos System I had because a driver couldn't be integrated into CQC. I went with the Logitech Duet, and it seems with the new 7.10 version of the software, it is much more reliable. I haven't had a chance to fully integrate it into CQC, but the system is working good.

In addition, I have added an Digi Etherlite 16 box for serial control, and using Digi's Realport software on the Master Server, and it is working good. I only had two items that I could not get to communicate with it, both were the B&K CT Driver. I worked on it long enough to finally give up and just use a USB to Serial Adapter for those two boxes. The other items I have connected up now are:

1. Direct TV - Old Style STV box (Sony A-3)
2. Direct TV - HR20 using the Gen II Driver
3. Jandy RS Pool Driver
4. Sony 777 Driver
5. B&K CT Driver with HD6 HDTV Switcher
6. B&K CT Driver (music only)
7. Caller ID Modem Driver
8. Weather Feed Driver
9. Squeezebox Driver (Squeezecenter is running on WHS PC)

I still have the Elk system in the box, but that is next on my list to get installed.

I also put in an On-Q / Legrand 4 Camera System. One at the front door, one for the driveway, one in the backyard area, and one in the living area. I went ahead and got their IP Video Server and an Everplex 4CQ Quad Processor. I may see about tackling a driver (or asking someone to do it) for the Quad. It has serial control and does 9 basic functions like switching to full screen or freezing.

Anyway, it is coming along slowly, but I am trying to work on it a little bit at a time. The next biggest hurdle is the Elk system, then re-doing my interfaces to accomodate all of the new items that are up and running.
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#23
kblagron Wrote:In addition, I have added an Digi Etherlite 16 box for serial control, and using Digi's Realport software on the Master Server, and it is working good. I only had two items that I could not get to communicate with it, both were the B&K CT Driver. I worked on it long enough to finally give up and just use a USB to Serial Adapter for those two boxes.

I've found that the B&K CT system only likes to be hooked up to Com ports 1-4. It is a B&K issue. So if you were trying to connect it to a Com port higher than 4, that is why it wouldn't work.

It's a real pain in the rear.
Brian

"Really dear, it was too good of a deal to pass up. Besides, look at what it does now...."
I think my wife is getting a little tired of hearing this :-)
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#24
Thats probably what it is then Brian, as I had the Digi box set up for Com ports 11 - 26, and the USB / Serial Adapter set up for Com 3/4.

Thanks for the heads up on that. Good thing I only worked about 2 hours on that before I gave up :-)

Blake
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#25
I figured since its been 9 mos since I updated this, I would go ahead and make a stab at it.

I have been busy (well as busy as you can be when this is a spare time hobby) getting most of the equipment I plan to use in place and working. I put together a basic interface and haven't really done much with it. In hindsight I am glad I haven't spent more time working on it, as I have now learned alot more of what I want and how I want it to be set up. I guess that will be the task for 2009.

Since my last update I have:

1) Finally installed all of the ceiling speakers throughout my house. What a PITA - Nothing like a little sawdust in your face - but alas they are installed in every room. I can't believe it, I ended up installing a total of 31 speakers, all of the in-ceiling speakers were Polk, a couple of the Boston Acoustics Soundware speakers in the outdoor kitchen, and I did some cheapies in the garage and around the patio pool area. I ended up with this:

- 3 Polk TC80i's in the Family room as LCR
- 1 Pair Polk RC80i's in the Family room as Rear Surround
- 1 Pair Boston Acoustics Soundware in Outdoor Kitchen plus 2 Pair Dual Outdoor cheapies around the pool area
- 2 pair Dual Outdoor Cheapies in the Garage
- All of the other rooms in the house have Polk RC60i's. I got a great deal on e-bay and paid $90 / pair for these (8 pair total)

2) Added the Brultech Energy Monitor. When the pool contractor installed the power to the pool, they had put the Sub-Panel for it outside, even though my main power panel is in the garage. I took this as an opportunity to move the sub-panel to the garage and also add a 230V plug for generator power. Never thought I would need it, but after two hurricanes in the last 3 years that put us without power for days, it is nice to be able to switch a breaker and plug in a generator and live somewhat comfortably.

The energy monitor is great - I have the family actually paying attention to lights that are on and seeing what is using up power.

3) I purchased one of Sic0048 (Brian's) T5700's he did a group buy for, and put it in my office. I had an 8" Lilliput touchscreen along with a PCI card that was not being used , so I bought the PCI expansion chassis and installed an ATI card with PowerStrip so I could get the 800 x 480 resolution. This setup works great - I have it on a swing arm to the side of my desk, so I can have easy access to CQC via touchscreen.

4) I went ahead and finally ditched the Sonos equipment I had, and went with the SqueezeBox Duet. I have been using the new driver, and have really just grazed the surface of its capabilities, but love how well it interacts with XM Radio Online and the playlists I have on my WHS server.

5) I am just getting started with trying to distribute DVD disk based video. Not sure what option I want to go with yet. I am using the B&K HD6 to distribute two DTV feeds and the Sony 777 DVD's to 4 rooms, so I hope to come up with a plan soon for this.

6) I now have 3 DTV boxes tied into CQC that can be controlled serially, along with a Samsung DLP and an LG LCD. Haven't really done much with these other than get the wiring in place.

Future Plans:

- I have an Elk M1 gold that I started to install but only got the keypads up. There is something about 40 wires sticking through a can that kind of makes you think of other things you can do with your time.
- Install the Rain8Net Pro that is still in the box.
- I want to program the B&K keypads I have throughout the house to be able to more things. The manual and software are not the easiest thing in the world to decipher, so this may take some time.
- Get the disked based DVD stuff working.
- Eventually get to the HVAC and lighting.
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#26
During the installation of the Brultech CT's, I decided to do what should have been done to begin with when my pool was put in, and that was to move the sub-panel from the outside of the garage to the inside, next to the main panel. After helping out several people during hurricane Ike with installing a 220V plug from their main panel to a generator, I felt pretty comfortable with tackling this and dealing with the high voltage.

In the end, it was relatively easy installing the box, fishing the wires from the outside to the inside......except for one small problem - I had 4 bundles of 3 wires coming from the pool into the new subpanel, and I somehow mislabled two of the bundles which meant that 3 of the wires got got crossed with 3 other wires. The biggie (I think) was shooting power down the ground wire (oops). Fortunately a breaker tripped, I saw the problem in the connecting box outside where the ground wire was burned, and figured out what I had done. I was very lucky I didn't burn up a pump or the Jandy power center.

Anyway, after doing all this, I ran into some comm port issues, and although at the time I thought they were unrelated, I am thinking they are one in the same.

The Jandy Serial Adapter didn't work anymore, and also the Etherlite 16 adapter would power on but would not send out signals anymore. No worries on either - The Serial adapter was still in warranty, and I bought two backups of the Etherlite 16 box - at least I thought no worries.

The new Etherlite 16 box worked fine except for the three DTV boxes, and it would continually drop connections, but if I put any of them on the one internal comm port there were no problems with staying connected. I had purchased a Moxa U-Port (8 port model) some time back and never hooked it up, and decided it was time to get this installed and drive the DTV boxes from it, so after installing it, I got the two DTV Gen 2 devices working, but was still dropping connections on the Gen 1 box.

Well, I finally broke down and moved the Gen 1 to the comm port that is built into the computer (which was my test port for the new stuff), and now I have Com1 assigned to it. With Ports 3 thru 18 assigned to the Etherlite 16 (12 ports still available), Port 19 to the Brultech virtual com port, and Ports 21 - 28 (5 still vacant) to the Moxa U-Port, I truly hope I never have to deal with a comm port again.

The good news is I got everything back up and running with almost no comm port connection issues. I also got the Jandy Serial Adapter replaced, and it is working good also.

Lets here it for TCP drivers!
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#27
Yeah, I wish devices were more serial port friendly - ie would work on any serial port. I have a B&K CT600 whole house receiver that will only connect to a serial port numbered 1-4. Why? It's dumb. Now I am trying to fight with installing a Digi Edgeport to install starting at ports 1-8 instead of 9-16 like it wants to. There are no serial ports on this computer at all, yet I cannot get it to install as ports 1 to 8. If I cannot get that to work, then I cannot connect my CT600. Dumb, Dumb, Dumb!

Congrats on getting your setup working. I know how hard it can be sometimes.
Brian

"Really dear, it was too good of a deal to pass up. Besides, look at what it does now...."
I think my wife is getting a little tired of hearing this :-)
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#28
sic0048 Wrote:Now I am trying to fight with installing a Digi Edgeport to install starting at ports 1-8 instead of 9-16 like it wants to. There are no serial ports on this computer at all, yet I cannot get it to install as ports 1 to 8. If I cannot get that to work, then I cannot connect my CT600.

You can change the port numbers in Device Manager, or at least with my 16 port Digi, the Digiport software.

Brian
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#29
Brian,

Check out this website, it tells you how to get rid of the phantom ports - I have had to do it a couple of times with mine, and it works as described:

http://www.digi.com/support/kbase/kbaser...jsp?id=274
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#30
Perfect, I will try that. I had made an attempt to change the port numbers via the digi software without much success. Shortly after trying it, the computer crashed and I haven't fixed it yet. I doubt the two were related, but you never know. This is for my parents new set up, so it hasn't effected my system.
Brian

"Really dear, it was too good of a deal to pass up. Besides, look at what it does now...."
I think my wife is getting a little tired of hearing this :-)
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