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KBL's CQC Setup
#11
kblagron Wrote:Here is a picture of the access door (shown from the attic side) showing how you can access the numerous connections on the back of the whole house audio/video gear.

Only one who is addicted to home automation and audio/video can appreciate the sheer bliss of the amount of connections shown in that picture.

Either that, or I need help!
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#12
The Bottom two are B&K CT610 Whole House Audio Receivers and the top one is the B&K HD-6 Component Video Switcher.

I am hoping to keep the wires nice and tidy, but that may be more of a dream than a reality. I bought some of the 2-1/2" x 3" plastic wire ducts to help, but haven't yet figured out exactly where I plan on using them. I was going to utilize them on the side of the can, but at least for now I don't see that I need them.
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#13
Making progress (slowly) on getting the wires labeled so I can start putting them in the patch panel. I fortunately have a good bit of attic space to do this, so I can put my toner on a wire downstairs, then walk upstairs and figure out which wire it is. I figure that I am about 80% complete. Here is a picture of my wires laid out to figure out which one is which. You can see the patch panel and access panel to my A/V gear in the background. This is definitely taking a lot longer than I thought!
[Image: DSC02308.jpg]

As you can see, my wiring crew did me a big favor and left me about 10-15' of extra wire on each run, so I will have alot of extra wire to build patch cables between the patch panel and the A/V equipment.

I have gotten all of the keypads (7 total) installed in the various rooms, and am now working on the touchscreen. The wiring installer put a double gang box at the touchscreen location with 3 cat5e's, 1 16-2 for power, and a 16-4 from the wiring closet and 2 16-2 runs to the speaker location.
[Image: DSC02299.jpg]

I am using a 10" Xenarc 1020TSV as a touchscreen which is driven by my CQC master server that sits in my wiring closet. The touchscreen has holes for a VESA mount, so I picked up a cheap mount for almost nothing at Cyberguys. I ended up using some 2x4 framing mounts and 2x4's running horizontal to allow me to attach the VESA mount in the proper location. What was great about this setup was that I could then adjust the depth part with the screws in front to get the touchscreen almost completely against the wall. The 2 extenders that I am carrying VGA/audio and USB signals will be able to sit in between the 2x4's that the mount attaches to.
[Image: DSC02310.jpg]

Here is a picture of the touchscreen installed (although the wires still have to be terminated and installed, but I was pretty happy with the end result wrt how it looked. The stainless steel bezel on the touchscreen matched almost perfectly with the kitchen appliances.
[Image: DSC02312.jpg].
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#14
I spent the last week installing the whole house audio speakers, and locating all of the wires. I finished all of the terminations in the TV space area in the Family room -> I had a total of 13 cat5e's, 2 16-4's, 5 16-2's, and 3 coax - I think I finally got the hang of punching down the quickport cat5e connectors!

The wiring installer zig-zagged most of the speaker wires for the ceiling speakers in each room. I had him put boxes on the locations where the 2nd story was directly above. Overall, it was not overly difficult to cut the holes for the speakers, just a bit time consuming, and very messy with the saw dust and blown insulation. I ended up using a 10' x 25' plastic sheet to keep this down to a minimum, but you still put a lot of particles airborn. I cannot say how valuable the pictures I took after the wiring was installed on making sure the hole was cut in the right location and not into a rafter.

I ended up going with Polk Rc-65i's (6.5") in 5 of the rooms (Office / MBR / MBath / Sun Room / Patio), and put in some cheap wall mounted speakers in the garage. For the family room, I put in Polk Tc-80i's (8") for the L/R/C and Rc80i's for the surround. I initially was planning on mounting the speakers in the front, but the configuration was such that the ceiling mounts were the best way to go. I used a Niles SPK speaker switch on the surrounds so that it will switch between the receiver and the whole house audio. I did get the Audio receiver hooked up to the speakers in the family room - I was very happy with the sound, so I guess the ceiling mounts worked out, although I was a little nervous never having had those before.

One interesting side note on this - Right before sheet rocking, I had noticed that they hadn't put insulation in the ceiling above the sunroom which is directly below an upstairs balcony which is open to the environment , and I called my superintendent to let him know, but couldn't follow up on it as I was going on vacation and did not have cell phone access. Needless to say, I came back from vacation, the sheet rock was up, and the superintendent had quit while I was away. I posed the question to the new superintendent, and he had a guy come out with a gun that determine insulation - I assume it measure heat, and he said it must have been installed. Alas, when I cut the speaker holes, there was no insulation - so it looks like the builder will be ripping out some sheet rock in this one room to blow some in.

Next on the list - Pull the wires into the patch panel and begin terminating. Hopefully in the next week I will have some sound going to all the rooms.
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#15
Is the upstairs balcony outside/unheated space. If so, there really shouldn't be any insulation above it since it is unheated space. As long as the insulation is correctly installed above any heated space, you are OK. I'm sure the insulation quote would not have included any unheated spaces, so you didn't pay for something you haven't received IMHO.

Of course if the builder is willing to come back and put insulation in, it won't hurt anything. But is doesn't really sound like it is required.
Brian

"Really dear, it was too good of a deal to pass up. Besides, look at what it does now...."
I think my wife is getting a little tired of hearing this :-)
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#16
I noticed I had worded the location of the insulation incorrectly on my previous post.

The sun room is on the 1st floor, and the balcony is just above it and it is covered but open to the environment. There is no insulation between the 1st floor (above the sheet rock in the sun room) and the floor of the balcony, or at least not that I can tell. I will have them look at it and tell me why it wasn't there. The builder has a 3rd party inspector for the insulation, so you think that would have been caught.
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#17
Well if that is the case and there no insulation in the ceiling below the balcony, then obviously the builder needs to come back and fix that. Otherwise that is going to be a cold, drafty sunroom compared to the rest of the house.
Brian

"Really dear, it was too good of a deal to pass up. Besides, look at what it does now...."
I think my wife is getting a little tired of hearing this :-)
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#18
that does look clean. I really like your patch panel box. mine is such a mess. Can you post pics once you get everything plugged in?

I was wondering how much space you have to route cables to your B&K CT units? It looks like the back of them are pretty close to the wall. I know with mine that I have a rather large croud of wires in the back of them...
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#19
Yea!!!!!!!!!! I finally got my gear powered back up!

After 4 months with limited CQC (pretty much weather only) since I moved, I was able to terminate the wires at my patch panel and get most of the whole house audio up and working. I have not started on the HD-6 video distribution yet, but do have it powered up anyway for CQC control.

Here is what the patch panel looks like with the wires terminated (without cover):

[Image: DSC02322.jpg]

And what it looks like with the cover on it:

[Image: DSC02323.jpg]

I have all of the phone, SDTV, cable modem, and VOIP installed in the 50" can:

[Image: DSC02324.jpg]

And finally a look at the wiring coming into the back of the patch panel:

[Image: DSC02325.jpg]

I have numerous additional wires to terminate, but this at least gets me up and running with whole house audio in 3/4 of the rooms.

I owe Zaccari and others a ton of credit for recommending to add the access door behind the A/V gear. I initally rolled the rack out and hooked up everything, and then pushed it into place. Since then, as I have added things, I have been able to access everything from behind without moving anything!. I think that was the best idea in this setup knowing how many times I will be adding things.

One somewhat big screw-up - And I know better, because normally I always check - I had bought some patch cables over 6 months ago at Fry's when they were on sale, and they were still in the bag. As I was hooking up the extenders for the touchscreen in the kitchen that plugs into the CQC Server, I noticed that the USB part wasn't working but video was fine. Figured it was maybe a faulty termination. So I switched the patch cables between the two, and then the video wasn't working right - colors were off. That is when I looked at the cable and realized it was a crossover cable that I had bought, and I had sent power down the wrong wires. I was p/o'd for a bit, but eventually (as always when your a DIY), you get over it. At least the touchscreen didn't get fried. So for now, I am touchscreenless in the kitchen until I get new extenders, but still have the UMPC in the family room working fine. I have a Nokia 770 as well, but haven't gone through the process others have of getting it working at startup.

I did install the B&K CK 1.1 and CK 1.2 keypads in 8 locations, and have not programmed the buttons yet, but the default settings let me control what I need for now. They definitely aren't sexy, and I hope to one day go to the Rad I/O touchscreens, but I find these very usuable, especially in the rooms without CQC access.

Next plan of action - Get the DTV tied into the HD-6 and distribute along with the On-Q camera system that I purchased.
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#20
Looks good, i'm sure it's a relief to see some progress.
------------------------------------
Devices I can't stand and wish I could replace: SmartThings, Hue, Concerto, VRUSB
My vlogs: https://www.youtube.com/c/IVBsHomeAutomation
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